While political strategists and “forensic lip readers” scrutinize the photographs of President Donald Trump and Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky speaking before Pope Francis’ funeral Saturday, others might be interested in the back story behind Zelensky’s attire.
The Ukrainian leader’s all-black look was somewhat of a change of pace, compared to the more casual military-style ensembles that he has worn for three years, as a sign of solidarity to the soldiers fighting in the war with Russia. Applause for the 47-year-old president could be heard, when he arrived in St. Peter’s Square Saturday for the historic funeral. Earlier he and Trump had a 15-minute meeting in St. Peter’s Basilica about the ongoing negotiations over ending the Russian invasion of Ukraine.
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While not completely deviating from his wartime attire, Zelensky partially adhered to the Vatican’s dress code for the somber occasion. Men were advised to wear a dark suit with a long black tie, with a black button on the left lapel of the jacket, where only Vatican honors could be placed. Some of the attendees including President Trump and Prince William, who were among the dozens of global dignitaries, opted for blue suits instead. Women attendees were advised to wear a black dress that was preferably long and a coordinating veil and gloves. First Lady Melania Trump (wearing Dolce & Gabbana), Jill Biden (sporting Schiaparelli with Marion Parke pumps) and French President Emmanuel Macron’s wife Brigitte (in an all-black ensemble with a gold Louis Vuitton belt) followed the dress code, as did Zelensky’s wife Olena Zelenska, who wore a black blouse, a black skirt suit and black high-heeled black boots.
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Prior to the funeral, Zelensky’s team reached out to the Ukrainian menswear designer Viktor Anisimov about potential options, the designer said Sunday via e-mail. His final choice was a black tailored military-style field jacket with patch pockets that was buttoned to the neck, and was worn with a classic cotton shirt, straight-cut trousers and black shoes.
That was more formal than the three-button black Gasanova polo shirt and pants that the Ukrainian president wore for a Feb. 28 Oval Office visit with Trump and Vice President JD Vance. During that meeting, Zelensky was chided by Trump and criticized by Vance for not being more dressed up in a suit. That led to global headlines in the mainstream media and much debate on social media. In his defense, Zelensky said at that time, “I will wear costume after this war will finish. Maybe something like yours. Maybe something better, I don’t know. Maybe something cheaper.”
Anisimov said that several variations of formal attire were developed and were adapted to specific requirements at the request of Zelensky’s “Protocol Service.” His “capsule collection” for Zelensky featured approximately two dozen pieces — classic shirts, turtlenecks, T-shirts, field jackets and coats — all of which were made from natural certified fabrics such as linen, cotton and nettle. Those styles were created exclusively for Zelensky and are not currently available to consumers on Anisimov’s e-commerce site.
Unlike some Kyiv-based companies that have relocated, shifted production or shut down due to the Russian invasion, Anisimov continues to run his 25-year-old brand from the capital city. Zelensky has encouraged economic resilience and launched a “Made in Ukraine” platform, and his wife has also championed Ukrainian designers and creatives.
Anisimov’s collaboration with Zelensky was a first for the designer, who said, “We are proud to have had the opportunity to create an image that reflects the strength, dignity, and modernity of Ukraine.”
With nine million people currently living in poverty in Ukraine, the country will need at least $524 billion over the next decade to repair and rebuild, which is approximately 2.8 times the estimated nominal gross domestic product for 2024, according to the World Bank’s February 2025 Rapid Damage and Needs Assessment.
Zelensky’s capsule collection was meant to preserve “the idea of military uniform, while at the same time, reimagining it through a modern design perspective, in order to create a restrained, functional, and dignified image that reflects the reality of the time our country is living through,” Anisimov said.
The designer said many people who live outside of Ukraine underestimate “the strength of the Ukrainian spirit and the scale of the transformations happening in the country every day.” Although Anisimov has not fought on the frontlines against Russian forces, as a few designers have, he said his team is contributing “by doing what we do best. Through our work, we create jobs for Ukrainians and support patriotic and mobilization initiatives in collaboration with various foundations.”
There were 43,610 civilian casualties in Ukraine, of which 30,700 were injuries, as of March 31, according to the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights. Anisimov, whose company designed the official opening ceremony uniforms for the Ukrainian team at last summer’s Paralympic Games in Paris, spoke of the conflict’s human toll. He said, “The greatest loss is the people who were the driving force of our country. We feel a deep responsibility for them and strive through our work to contribute to the future of Ukraine.”