a poisoned chalice
A Michelin Star Might Kill Your Favorite Restaurant
New research shows restaurants that won major awards like a Michelin star were more likely to close due to the pressure of high demand.
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The Lede
Discovering a great restaurant is thrilling, especially before it really takes off. For restaurants, though, "hidden gem" status isn't always ideal. And so, when a place blows up — because it gets an award or winds up on a best-of list or goes viral on TikTok — it's generally good news. Except, success can sometimes come back to bite the business. Getting good is one thing. Getting big is another, and not every operation is up to the task.
Key Details
- Researcher Daniel Sands looked at the fates of New York City's most promising restaurants over the course of two decades. By 2019, he found that restaurants given a Michelin star were more likely to shutter.
- Once a restaurant gains notoriety, other businesses it works with take note. Suppliers charge more, landlords increase rent, and employees ask for better pay.
- But even if they ultimately failed, the Michelin restaurants that closed in Sands' research generally had a pretty good run.
